THE CUILLIN (RUM)

OS MAP: 39
Grid Reference (GR):  402995   

aus: © Ralph Storer,
100 Best Routes on Scottish Mountains
Warner Books

Entfernung: 20 km
Aufstieg: 1,900 m (6,250 ft)            
Zeitbedarf: 11 Stunden

Grade: 5 (hard scramble)
Terrain: 4 (rough)
Navigation: 5 (extremely hard)
Seriousness: 5 (very serios)

die Skala geht 1= leicht bis 5=schwer (U.S.)

Assessment: a superb long scramble across the unforgettable peaks of the forbidden Island.
Seasonal notes: a major winter mountaineering expedition.

Barkeval (591 m, 1,938 ft)

Boat Mountain (poss),

Hallival(723 m, 2,372 ft)

Mountain of Slabs,

Askival(812 m, 2,664 ft)

Ash (tree) Mountain, 

Trallval (702 m, 2,303 ft)

Giant's Mountam, 

Ainshval(781 m, 2,562 ft)

obscure

Sgurr nan Gillean (764 m, 2,506 ft)

Skoor nan Geel-yan, Peak of the Gullies

Bealach an Oir,

Byalach an Oa-ir, Pass of Gold (from Gaelic Or) or Pass of the Shore or Boundary (from Gaelic Oir)

Bealach an Fhuarain,

Byalach an Oo-arin, Pass of the Spring

Coire Dubh

Corra Doo, Black Corrie

Allt Slugan a' Choilich

Owlt Slookan a Chull'ich, Stream ofthe Cockerel's Gullet  

Climbing on the wild and mysterious island of Rum is an exercise in logistics and commitment, yet this book would be incomplete without at least one route across its rugged peaks. Before it became a National Nature Reserve, in 1957, access to the 'forbidden island' was discouraged by the owners, and even today authorisation to climb must be obtained from the Scottish Natural Heritage (kein Problem, wenn man auf der Insel übernachtet /U.S.). An overnight stay will be required (hostel accommodation or camping) and all provisions must be carried in.  
 

There is much to see on the island, notably the great sea cliffs and Stacks and the mountains themselves, the Cuillin of Rum, which form the shape of a question mark in the southern half of the island. They are certainly ‘one heap of rude mountains’, as MacCulloch described them in 1824. Their traverse is the best route in the Islands outside Skye, with unforgettable views and situations and many sections of exciting scrambling on mostly excellent rock closely related to Sky gabbro.

Begin at Kinloch and take the path up the left bank of the Allt Slugan a Choilich into Coire Dubh, from where the Bealach Barkeval is easily reached. Climb Barkeval for the view of northern Rum and the main ridge, then return to the bealach and climb Hallival. Beyond Hallival the ridge narrows to a sharp rocky arete leading to Askival, Rum's highest peak. Askivals north ridge is the sharpest of the day and provides the most spectacular scrambling, although the only real difficulty is the steep step of the so-called Askival Pinnacle, which can be bypassed on the left.  
 

From Askival, the main ridge turns west for a long descent to the Bealach an Oir and reascent to the twin tops of Trallval, the scramble over the airy summit ridge connecting them requiring care. Another long descent to the Bealach an Fhuarain separates you from the last major ascent of the day, the intimidating north ridge of Ainshval. The rock here is quartzite, loose and greasy when wet, and care is required, but on closer acquaintance all difficulties are avoidable. The final section of ridge over a subsidiary top to Sgurr nan Gillean is relatively straightforward, and this last summit of the day makes a fitting finish to the traverse, for before you the ground drops away steeply and ahead lies only the sea.
 

The easiest return route is to redescend to the Bealach an Fhuarain and contour the slopes of Trallval to the Bealach an Oir. From here descend slightly and traverse beneath Askival and Hallival around the head of the Atlantic Corrie to reach the Bealach Barkeval and the route of ascent.
 
© Ralph Storer

Empfehlung für robuste Geher: Abstieg vom Sgurr nan Gillean, weglos und steil, nach Dibidil, von dort leicht auf Ponytrack entlang der Küste zurück nach Kinloch. Leichter: zurück über den Ainshival ins Glen Dibidil und auf Pfad durch das Tal zum Küstenweg.
 
Eine sehr schöne Beschreibung der Tour mit weiteren Fotos findet man auf der Seite von Allan Devlin.
Eine weitere auf der informativen website Walk Scotland.

Landranger Map 0039: Rum, Eigg & Muck  
Ordnance Survey

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